steps_-platts-and-arches
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steps_-platts-and-arches [2020/09/27 17:11] 2a01:4b00:f028:200:416e:aec4:4d95:a2c0 |
steps_-platts-and-arches [2021/03/25 13:17] (current) admin |
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| Many steps and platts are badly worn and the soffit may have been softened and laminated due to water seeping through the joints; rooms added under the steps may suffer from chronic and incurable dampness. The arches and platts may have been weakened by settlement of the area retaining wall (as at the west end of Fettes Row) or, less commonly, by movement in the front wall of the building. The ends of stone steps often laminate and they may be split by rusting iron balusters. | Many steps and platts are badly worn and the soffit may have been softened and laminated due to water seeping through the joints; rooms added under the steps may suffer from chronic and incurable dampness. The arches and platts may have been weakened by settlement of the area retaining wall (as at the west end of Fettes Row) or, less commonly, by movement in the front wall of the building. The ends of stone steps often laminate and they may be split by rusting iron balusters. | ||
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| ===== REPAIRS ===== | ===== REPAIRS ===== | ||
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| badly worn and the stone is otherwise sound, the surface may be levelled with an epoxy screed. | badly worn and the stone is otherwise sound, the surface may be levelled with an epoxy screed. | ||
| - | If the stone around the base of cast-iron balusters has spalled off, it can be built up with a suitable | + | {{ : |
| mortar repair mix around an armature of copper wire, but it is better if the stone can be cut back to | mortar repair mix around an armature of copper wire, but it is better if the stone can be cut back to | ||
| receive a new indent fixed with stainless-steel dowels and epoxy resin. With either method, the baluster should be removed, rust-proofed and reset in a new hole. If there is extensive damage to the edges of exceptionally long steps and platts, it may be necessary to cut back the ends by some 150 mm and refix the railings 100 mm from the newly formed edge. This repair requires an extra length of railing to be inserted on each side of the steps at the pavement; where the railings are complex, this may be difficult and expensive. On no account should the bases of the balusters be secured by a concrete haunching built up along the sides of the steps and platt. | receive a new indent fixed with stainless-steel dowels and epoxy resin. With either method, the baluster should be removed, rust-proofed and reset in a new hole. If there is extensive damage to the edges of exceptionally long steps and platts, it may be necessary to cut back the ends by some 150 mm and refix the railings 100 mm from the newly formed edge. This repair requires an extra length of railing to be inserted on each side of the steps at the pavement; where the railings are complex, this may be difficult and expensive. On no account should the bases of the balusters be secured by a concrete haunching built up along the sides of the steps and platt. | ||
| - | {{ : | + | If leaks are damaging a room in the basement below the platt, it may be worth repointing the joints, |
| although this will not be a permanent cure because, when new, the stones were butted without any form | although this will not be a permanent cure because, when new, the stones were butted without any form | ||
| of waterproofing. The existing mortar should be raked out to a depth of at least 50 mm, all loose mortar removed and the joints washed out, repointed with lime mortar and finished with silicone or polysulphide mastic applied by a gun to a depth of about 20 mm. | of waterproofing. The existing mortar should be raked out to a depth of at least 50 mm, all loose mortar removed and the joints washed out, repointed with lime mortar and finished with silicone or polysulphide mastic applied by a gun to a depth of about 20 mm. | ||
| - | {{ :: | + | {{ :: |
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